7 Signs of a Failing Well Pump

A sudden drop in water pressure throughout the house is the most common and reliable first sign of a failing well pump. The change is usually noticeable: a shower that normally runs with strong pressure becomes weak, or a dishwasher takes significantly longer to fill. The pressure drop can occur gradually over weeks or happen quickly over a day or two. The pressure tank in your well system maintains pressure between 40 and 60 PSI in most residential systems. If the pump cannot maintain this range, pressure at fixtures drops. Do not assume the issue is the pump immediately -- check whether the pressure tank bladder has failed (a common separate issue that can mimic pump problems) and whether the pressure switch is set correctly. However, if the pressure tank checks out and the problem persists, the pump is the likely cause.

If you turn on a faucet and the water comes out in bursts or sputters, interspersed with air, the pump is likely drawing air rather than water. This happens when the water level in the well drops below the pump intake, or when the pump itself has developed a seal failure that allows air to enter the system. Air in the lines is an urgent sign. A pump running dry (pumping air instead of water) can burn out the motor very quickly, often within minutes to hours, converting a repairable problem into a full pump replacement. If you notice sputtering water, reduce water use immediately and call a well professional. The issue may be a temporarily low water table during a drought (in which case the water level may recover) or it may indicate the pump is failing and needs to be replaced.

A well pump should cycle on to build pressure in the tank and then shut off when the target pressure is reached. The pump then waits quietly while water is used from the tank. If the pressure switch clicks on and the pump runs for extended periods without reaching the cutoff pressure, something is preventing the system from pressurizing properly. This continuous running is both a symptom and a problem: a pump running continuously generates heat and wears out faster. Causes include a failed pressure tank (the bladder has ruptured, so the tank has no air cushion), a major leak in the water line between the pump and the house, or a pump that has lost efficiency and can no longer generate enough pressure. Each cause has a different repair approach, but continuous running always warrants immediate investigation.

A well pump motor draws a consistent amount of electricity when running. If the pump is struggling, it may run longer or more frequently than normal to maintain pressure, driving up energy consumption. A 1 HP submersible pump draws about 750 watts when running. If that pump is running twice as many hours per day as it should because the system is not pressurizing efficiently, the monthly electric bill will reflect it. A sudden unexplained increase in your electricity bill -- particularly if your water usage has not changed -- is worth investigating. Compare the current bill to the same month in prior years. If you have a smart meter or energy monitoring, you may be able to identify the pump as the source of the additional load by checking usage data. A $20 to $50 per month unexplained increase is worth a service call.

The pressure switch is the small electrical switch mounted on the pipe near the pressure tank. It turns the pump on when pressure drops to the lower set point (usually 40 PSI) and off when it reaches the upper set point (usually 60 PSI). Rapid clicking -- the switch turning on and off in quick succession -- indicates the pump is unable to maintain pressure. You can hear this as a series of rapid clicks near the pressure tank and may notice flickering lights if the pump motor is drawing significant current at startup. Rapid cycling is hard on the pump motor because each startup draws a surge of current. A motor that is starting and stopping 50 times per hour instead of 5 to 10 times per hour is under extreme stress and can fail quickly. A failed pressure tank bladder is the most common cause of rapid cycling; it can be replaced without replacing the pump.

Fine sand or silt in your water can indicate the pump is sitting too close to the bottom of the well and drawing in sediment, or that the pump's screen has deteriorated and is pulling debris into the water stream. A small amount of sediment when you first draw water after a period of non-use is not unusual. But persistent discoloration or grittiness suggests the pump or well screen may need attention. In wells with sandy or unconsolidated formations, fine sand can wear out the pump's impellers over time, reducing efficiency and eventually causing failure. A pump professional can pull the pump and inspect it for wear if sediment in the water is persistent. Installing an in-line sediment filter at the pressure tank provides protection for your home's plumbing and appliances in the meantime.

Complete loss of water is the end stage of pump failure. This can result from the pump motor burning out (often from running dry or overheating after an extended period of struggling), a failed pressure switch that is not sending the on signal to the pump, a tripped circuit breaker on the pump circuit, or a major break in the water line from the well to the house. Start with the simple checks: verify the circuit breaker for the well pump has not tripped (reset it once if it has; do not repeatedly reset a breaker that keeps tripping). Check the pressure switch for obvious damage or corrosion. If the electrical supply is intact and the pressure switch appears functional, the problem is most likely the pump itself. A well professional can test the pump from the surface using a multimeter before pulling it, which can confirm or rule out pump failure before incurring the cost of extraction.