7 Signs Your Well Pump Is Failing (Do Not Ignore #3)

Updated April 2026

Well pump failure rarely happens without warning. Most failing pumps show symptoms for days or weeks before complete failure. Recognizing them early saves money and prevents the emergency of having no water.

1

Sudden drop in water pressure

High

A sudden drop in water pressure throughout the house is the most common first sign of a failing well pump. The change is usually noticeable: a shower that normally runs strong becomes weak, or a dishwasher takes longer to fill. The pressure tank in your system maintains pressure between 40 and 60 PSI. If the pump cannot maintain this range, pressure at fixtures drops. Check the pressure tank first (a failing bladder mimics this symptom), then the pressure switch settings. If both check out, the pump is the likely cause.

What to do right now: Check the pressure gauge on the tank. If it reads below 40 PSI and the pump is running, the pump is losing its ability to build pressure.

2

Sputtering or air in the water lines

High

Water coming out in bursts interspersed with air means the pump is drawing air instead of water. This happens when the water level in the well drops below the pump intake, or when the pump has developed a seal failure. A pump running dry can burn out the motor within minutes to hours, converting a repairable problem into a full replacement.

What to do right now: Reduce water use immediately and call a well professional. Do not let the pump continue running dry.

3

Pump runs continuously without shutting off

Critical

A well pump should cycle on to build pressure, then shut off when the target is reached. If the pump runs for extended periods without reaching cutoff pressure, something is preventing the system from pressurizing. This continuous running generates excessive heat and accelerates wear. Common causes include a failed pressure tank (the bladder has ruptured so the tank has no air cushion), a major leak in the water line, or a pump that has lost efficiency and can no longer generate adequate pressure.

What to do right now: Turn off the pump at the breaker to prevent motor burnout. Check for visible leaks between the well and the house. Check the pressure tank for waterlogging (tap the tank -- it should sound hollow at the top and solid at the bottom).

4

Unusually high electric bill

Medium

A struggling pump runs longer and more frequently than normal, driving up energy consumption. A 1 HP submersible pump draws about 750 watts when running. If it is running twice as many hours per day as normal, the monthly bill reflects it. A sudden unexplained increase of $20 to $50 per month -- especially if water usage has not changed -- warrants investigation. Compare to the same month in prior years.

What to do right now: Check your energy provider's usage data for spikes. If the pump circuit is on a separate meter or breaker, you can isolate it to confirm.

5

Rapid clicking from the pressure switch

High

The pressure switch turns the pump on when pressure drops to the lower set point (usually 40 PSI) and off at the upper set point (usually 60 PSI). Rapid clicking means the pump is unable to maintain pressure. You can hear this as a series of fast clicks near the pressure tank, and may notice flickering lights. A motor starting and stopping 50 times per hour instead of 5 to 10 is under extreme stress.

What to do right now: A failed pressure tank bladder is the most common cause of rapid cycling. Check the tank before assuming the pump needs replacing. See our pressure tank guide.

6

Sandy, dirty, or discolored water

Medium

Persistent sand or silt in your water can indicate the pump is sitting too close to the well bottom and drawing sediment, or that the pump screen has deteriorated. Fine sand wears out pump impellers over time, reducing efficiency and eventually causing failure. A small amount of sediment when first drawing water after a period of non-use is not unusual, but persistent discoloration suggests the pump or well screen needs attention.

What to do right now: Install a sediment filter at the pressure tank as a temporary measure. Have a professional pull and inspect the pump for impeller wear.

7

Complete loss of water

Critical

Complete water loss is the end stage of pump failure. This can result from the pump motor burning out, a failed pressure switch not sending the on signal, a tripped circuit breaker, or a major break in the water line. Before assuming the worst, check the simple causes first: verify the circuit breaker has not tripped (reset it once; do not repeatedly reset a breaker that keeps tripping), and check the pressure switch for damage or corrosion.

What to do right now: Check the breaker first, then the pressure switch. If both are fine, the pump has likely failed and needs professional diagnosis. A technician can test the pump electrically from the surface before pulling it.

Is It the Pump or the Pressure Tank?

This is the most expensive misdiagnosis in well systems. A $400 pressure tank fix gets confused with a $2,000 pump replacement. Here is how to tell the difference.

SymptomPressure Tank FailurePump Failure
Rapid pump cycling (on/off every few seconds)Very likelyUnlikely
Gradual pressure loss over weeksPossibleVery likely
No water at allUnlikelyVery likely
Water from air valve on tankConfirmedN/A
Tank feels uniformly heavyVery likely (waterlogged)N/A
High electric billPossible (from cycling)Very likely
Sputtering/air in linesUnlikelyVery likely
Repair cost$300 - $600$1,000 - $3,000

See our full pressure tank diagnosis guide for step-by-step instructions.

Before You Call a Professional: DIY Diagnostic Checklist

Electrical Checks

  • Check the circuit breaker panel for a tripped well pump breaker
  • Check the disconnect switch near the well or pressure tank
  • Look for obvious damage or corrosion on the pressure switch wiring
  • Listen for a hum from the pump when the pressure switch is engaged (hum but no water can mean a seized motor or stuck check valve)

Pressure Tank Checks

  • Tap the tank: a healthy tank sounds hollow at the top and solid at the bottom
  • Check the air valve (like a tire valve): air should come out, not water
  • Water from the air valve confirms a ruptured bladder
  • Read the pressure gauge: it should show between 40 and 60 PSI during normal operation

Pressure Gauge Reading

  • 0 PSI: pump is not running or has completely failed
  • Below 30 PSI: pump is struggling to build pressure
  • 40-60 PSI cycling: normal operation
  • Stuck at cut-in (40 PSI) with pump running: pump cannot build pressure

Check for Leaks

  • Walk the line from well to house looking for wet spots
  • Check the well cap for damage or gaps
  • Look for water pooling around the pressure tank
  • A leak between well and tank can cause the same symptoms as pump failure

When to Call Emergency Service vs Scheduling

Call Now (Emergency)

  • Complete water loss with no water at any fixture
  • Pump running continuously and overheating
  • Burning smell from the pump or control box
  • Water flooding from a broken pipe

Emergency service adds 25% - 50% to the total cost

Schedule This Week

  • Gradual pressure drop over several days
  • Intermittent sputtering at faucets
  • Higher-than-normal electric bill
  • Pump cycling more frequently than usual

Scheduling saves $300 - $800 compared to emergency rates

Replacement Cost Quick Reference

Jet Pump (under 25 ft)

$500 - $1,500

Submersible (25 - 150 ft)

$1,000 - $2,000

Submersible (150 - 400 ft)

$1,500 - $3,000

Updated 2026-04-27